Модный Лондон. Одежда и современный мегаполис - Кристофер Бруард

Borsa. English Stage. P. 5.

212

McQueen Pope. Gaiety. P. 405.

213

Здесь и далее – пер. Е. Суриц. (Прим. ред.)

214

Woolf. Mrs Dalloway. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1996. Рр. 2–3.

215

Ibid. Р. 9.

216

Lee H. Virginia Woolf. Chatto & Windus. 1996. Р. 552.

217

Woolf. Dalloway. Р. 15.

218

Light A. Forever England: Femininity, Literature and Conservatism between the Wars. London: Routledge, 1991. P. 115.

219

Struther J. Mrs Miniver. London: Virago, 1989. P. 14.

220

Lee H. The Novels of Virginia Woolf. London: Methuen, 1977. P. 94.

221

Priestly J.B. English Journey. London: Heinemann, 1934. Pp. 401–402.

222

Ibid. Pp. 402–403.

223

Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. I. London: King & Son, 1930. P. 171.

224

Ibid. P. 191.

225

Ibid. Pp. 192–193.

226

Forester C.W. Success through Dress. London: Duckworth, 1925. P. 62.

227

Ibid. P. 27.

228

Ibid. Pp. 20–21.

229

Dobbs S.P. The Clothing Workers of Great Britain. London: Routledge, 1928. P. 4.

230

Ibid. P. 7.

231

Ibid. P. 70.

232

Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. II. London: King & Son, 1931. P. 261.

233

Dobbs. The Clothing Workers. 8. P. 36.

234

Llewellyn Smith (ed.). The New Survey. Vol. II. P. 255.

235

Dobbs. The Clothing Workers. Pp. 77–78.

236

Llewellyn Smith (ed.). The New Survey. Vol. II. P. 305.

237

Ibid. P. 272.

238

Ibid. P. 283.

239

Settle A. Clothes Line. London: Methuen, 1937. Pp. 22–23.

240

В распоряжении Музея Лондона есть свадебное платье, соответствующее этому описанию. Хартнелл создал его для миссис Карл Бендикс, которая надела его на бал Dream of Fair Woman в феврале 1928 г. в отеле Claridges. Accession number 39.162a – c.

241

Graham S. London Nights. London: Hurst & Blackett, 1925. P. 1.

242

Schlor J. Nights in the Big City: Paris, Berlin, London 1840–1930. London: Reaktion, 1998. P. 269.

243

Graham. London Nights. Pp. 13–14.

244

Ibid. Pp. 195–196.

245

Schlor. Nights in the Big City. Pp. 172–174.

246

Graham. London Nights. P. 198.

247

Richards J. The Age of the Dream Palace: Cinema and Society in Britain 1930–1939. London: Routledge & Kegan Paul. 1984. Pp. 15–33.

248

Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. IX. London: King & Son, 1935. P. 47.

249

Richards. The Age of the Dream Palace. P. 209.

250

Ibid. P. 224.

251

Graham S. Twice Round the London Clock and More London Nights. London: Ernest Benn, 1933. Pp. 131–135.

252

Llewellyn Smith (ed.). New Survey. Vol. IX. Pp. 64–65.

253

Ibid. Pp. 51, 77.

254

Priestly J.B. Angel Pavement. London: William Heinemann, 1937. Pp. 501–502.

255

Пер. М. Абкиной. (Прим. ред.)

256

Garland M. The Indecisive Decade: The World of Fashion and Entertainment in the 30s. London: Macdonald & Co, 1968. Pp. 102–104.

257

Benjamin T. London Shops and Shopping. London: Herbert Joseph, 1934. Pp. 189–190.

258

Cohen-Portheim P. The Spirit of London. Philadelphia: J.B. Lippincott, 1930. Pp. 41–47.

259

Benjamin. London Shops. P. 190.

260

Montizambert E. London Discoveries in Shops and Restaurants. London: Women Publishers Ltd., 1924. P. 81.

261

Marshall F. London West. London: The Studio, 1944. P. 9.

262

Settle. Clothes Line. P. 99.

263

Cohen-Portheim. Spirit of London. Pp. 41–42.

264

Montizambert. London Discoveries. P. 82.

265

Benjamin T. A Shopping Guide to London. N.Y.: Robert McBride, 1930. Pp. 91–92.

266

Montizambert. London Discoveries. P. 43.

267

Ibid.

268

Ibid. Pp. 37–40.

269

Cohen-Portheim. Spirit of London. P. 47.

270

Montizambert. London Discoveries. P. 50.

271

Cohen-Portheim. Spirit of London. P. 41.

272

Woolf V. Oxford Street Tide // The London Scene. London: Hogarth Press, 1975. Pp. 16–20. Также см.: Breward C. In the Eye of the Storm: Oxford Circus and the Fashioning of Modernity // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. Vol. 4.1. 2000. Pp. 3–26.

273

Montizambert. London Discoveries. Pp. 7–8.

274

Ibid. P. 9.

275

Benjamin. London Shops. P. 161.

276

Ibid. P. 179.

277

Ibid. P. 95.

278

Ibid. P. 106.

279

Halliday S. Underground to Everywhere: London’s Underground Railway in the Life of the Capital. Stroud: Sutton, 2001.

280

Llewellyn Smith (ed.). New Survey. Vol. I. P. 191.

281

Gren O. Underground Art: London Transport Posters. London: Laurence King, 1999. Pp. 14–15.

282

Ibid. P. 70.

283

Jackson A. Semi-Detached London: Suburban Development, Life and Transport 1900–1939. London: Allen & Unwin, 1973. P. 180.

284

Raymond L. Guide to Edgware. London: The British Publishing Company Ltd., 1927. Pp. 11–12.

285

Mill Hill and Edgware. London: Service, 1934. P. 2.

286

Ibid. P. 71.

287

Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. V. London: King & Son, 1933. P. 163.

288

Ibid. Pp. 164–165.

289

Evans D.H. Mail Order Catalogue and Fashion Supplement. 1939. Guildhall Library. Pam 12379.

290

Carey J. The Intellectuals and the Masses. London: Faber & Faber, 1992.

291

Duff C. (ed.). Anthropological Report on a London Suburb by Prof. Chernichewski. London: Grayson & Grayson, 1935.

292

Humble N. The Feminine Middlebrow Novel, 1920s to 1950. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2001. Pp. 87–88, 131–132.

293

Browne K.R.G. Suburban Days. London: Cassell, 1928. P. 211.

294

Settle. Clothes Line. P. 86.

295

Amies H. Just so far. London: Collins, 1945. P. 245.

296

Буквально – «и так по сей день». (Прим. ред.)

297

Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. (Прим. пер.)

298

См.: Ehrman E. The Spirit of English Style: Hardy Amies, Royal Dressmaker and International Businessman // Breward C., Conekin B., Cox C. (eds). The Englishness of English Dress. Oxford: Berg, 2002. Pp. 140–142.

299

Эти трое – дизайнер интерьеров Питер Коутс, финансист Уильям Акройд (который консультировал Эмиса по вопросам графских привычек) и плейбой Марк Гилби.

300

Viscusi R. Max Beerbohm, or the Dandy Dante, Re-reading with Mirrors. Baltimore: John Hopkins university Press, 1986. P. 28.

301

Коды доступа в Музее Лондона: 60.30/2, 60.30/6, 60.30/8, 60.30/11.

302

Indian summer. (Прим. пер.)

303

Porter R. London: A Social History. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1994. P. 344.

304

Ричард Сейферт – архитектор, автор одного из первых лондонских небоскребов, Centre Point. (Прим. ред.)

305

Hopkins H. The New Look: A Social History of the Fortties and Fifties. London: Secker & Warburg, 1964. Pp. 427–428.

306

Smart Schmutter. (Прим. пер.)

307

MacInnes C. England, Half English: A Polyphoto of the Fifties. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1966. P. 151.

308

Fyvel T. The Insecure Offenders: Rebellious Youth on the Welfare State. London: Chatto & Windus, 1961. Pp. 48–51.

309

Ibid. Pp. 14–15.

310

Hebdige D. Subculture: The Meaning of Style. London: Routledge, 1979. P. 51.

311

Pearson G. Hooligan: A History of Respectable Fears. London: Macmillan, 1983. Pp. 20–22.

312

Williams H. South London. London: Robert Hale, 1949. P. 331.

313

Ibid. P. 320.

314

Willcock H.D. Mass Observation Report on Juvenile Delinquency. London: Falcon Press, 1949. P. 41.

315

См.: Davies A. Leisure, Gender & Poverty: Worrking Class Culture in Salford & Manchester. Buckingham: Open University Press, 1992. См. также: Ugolini L. Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2000. Vol. 4.4.

316

Willcock H.D. Mass Observation Report on Juvenile Delinquency. London: Falcon Press, 1949. Pp. 50–51.

317

Ibid. P. 50.

318

Hopkins H. The New Look: A Social History of the Forties and Fifties. London: Secker & Warburg. 1964. Pp. 98–99.

319

Murphy R. Smash and Grab: Gangsters in the London Underworld 1920–1960. London: Faber & Faber, 1993. P. 85.

320

Fyvel T. The Insecure Offenders: Rebellious Youth on the Welfare State. London: Chatto & Windus, 1961. P. 52.

321

Вариант приталенного пиджака с мягкой драпировкой (припуском) на передних полочках, широкими плечами и рукавом, зауженным к запястью, покрой которого отличает плавная линия проймы и выраженная талия с клешеными полами. (Прим. ред.)

322

MacInnes C. England, Half English: A Polyphoto of the Fifties. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1966. P. 150.

323

Я благодарен куратору отдела костюма Мадлен Гинзбург за эти воспоминания.

324

Chamberlain M. Growing Up in Lambeth. London: Virago, 1989. Pp. 78–79.

325

Sutherland D. Portrait of a Decade: London Life 1945–1955. London: Harrap, 1988. Pp. 49–50.

326

Ibid. P. 124.

327

Marshall F. London West. London: The Studio, 1944. P. 58.

328

British Travel and Holidays Association. (Прим. пер.)

329

Shopping in London. London: British Travel and Holidays Association, 1953. P. 27.

330

Whife A. (ed.). The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier. London: Caxton, 1949. P. 8.

331

Ibid. P. 262.

332

Ibid. Pp. 265–271.

333

Men’s Wear. 1947. 25 January. Р. 19.

334

Men’s Wear. 1952. 19 April. Р. 26.

335

Men’s Wear. 1952. 27 September. Р. 18.

336

Beaton C., Tynnan K. Persona Grata. London: Allan Wingate, 1953. Pp. 15–16.